Concept

Waves and shallow water

When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

Source officielle

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

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Source officielle

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

À propos de ce résultat

Cours associés (5)

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Jan Sickmann Hesthaven

Prof. Hesthaven received an M.Sc. in computational physics from the Technical University of Denmark (DTU) in August 1991. During the studies, the last 6 months of 1989 was spend at JET, the european fusion laboratory in Culham, UK. Following graduation, he was awarded a 3 year fellowship to begin work towards a Ph.D. at Riso National Laboratory in the Department of Optics and Fluid Dynamics. During the 3 years of study, the academic year of 1993-1994 was spend in the Division of Applied Mathematics at Brown University and three 3 months during the summer of 1994 in Department of Mathematics and Statistics at University of New Mexico. In August 1995, he recieved a Ph.D. in Numerical Analysis from the Institute of Mathematical Modelling (DTU). Following graduation in August 1995, he was awarded an NSF Postdoctoral Fellowship in Advanced Scientific Computing and was approinted Visiting Assistant Professor in the Division of Applied Mathematics at Brown University. In December of 1996, he was appointed consultant to the Institute of Computer Applications in Science and Engineering(ICASE) at NASA Langley Research Center (NASA LaRC). As of July 1999, he was appointed Assistant Professor of Applied Mathematics, in September 2000 he was awarded an Alfred P. Sloan Fellowship, as of July 2001 he was awarded a Manning Assistant Professorship, and in March 2002, he was awarded an NSF Career Award. In January 2003, he was promoted to Associate Professor of Applied Mathematics with tenure and in May 2004 he was awarded Philip J. Bray Award for Excellence in Teaching in the Sciences (the highest award given for teaching excellence in all sciences at Brown University). He was promoted to Professor of Applied Mathematics as of July 2005. From October 2006 to June 2013, he was the Founding Director of the Center for Computation and Visualization (CCV) at Brown University. As of October 2007, he holds the (honorary) title of Professor (Adjunct) at the Technical University of Denmark. In November 2009, he successfully defended his dr.techn thesis at the Technical University of Denmark and was rewarded the degree of Doctor Technices -- the highest academic distinction awarded based on ... substantial and lasting contributions that has helped to move the research area forward and penetrated into applications. As grant Co-PI he served from Aug 2010 to June 2013 as Deputy Director of the Institute of Computational and Experimental Research in Mathematics (ICERM), the newest NSF Mathematical Sciences Research Institute. After having spend his entire academic career at Brown University, Prof Hesthaven decided to pursue new challenges and joined the Mathematics Institute of Computational Science and Engineering (MATHICSE) at Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL) in Switzerland in July 2013. In March 2014 he was elected SIAM Fellow for contributions to high-order methods for partial differential equations.

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Équations de Boussinesq

thumb|right|250px|Ondes de gravité à l'entrée d'un port (milieu à profondeur variable). Les équations de Boussinesq en mécanique des fluides désignent un système d'équations d'ondes obtenu par approximation des équations d'Euler pour des écoulements incompressibles irrotationnels à surface libre. Elles permettent de prévoir les ondes de gravité comme ondes cnoïdales, ondes de Stokes, houle, tsunamis, solitons, etc. Ces équations ont été introduites par Joseph Boussinesq en 1872 et sont un exemple d'équations aux dérivées partielles dispersives.

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Une vague () est une déformation de la surface d'une masse d'eau le plus souvent sous l'effet du vent. À l'interface des deux fluides principaux de la Terre, le vent crée des vagues sur les océans, mers et lacs. Ces mouvements irréguliers se dispersent à la surface de l'eau et sont collectivement appelés état de la mer. D'autres phénomènes, moins fréquents, sont aussi la source de vagues. Ainsi, les séismes majeurs, éruptions volcaniques ou chutes de météorites créent également des vagues appelées tsunamis ou raz-de-marée.

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