Coastal sediment supplyCoastal sediment supply is the transport of sediment to the beach environment by both fluvial and aeolian transport. While aeolian transport plays a role in the overall sedimentary budget for the coastal environment, it is paled in comparison to the fluvial supply which makes up 95% of sediment entering the ocean. When sediment reaches the coast it is then entrained by longshore drift and littoral cells until it is accreted upon the beach or dunes. While it is acknowledged that storm systems are the driver behind coastal erosion.
Érosionthumb|Effet de la combinaison de l'érosion éolienne et hydrique (Coyote Buttes, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, États-Unis). thumb|Risque d'érosion des sols (Europe méditerranéenne). En géomorphologie, l’érosion est le processus de dégradation et de transformation du relief, et donc des sols, roches, berges et littoraux qui est causé par tout agent externe (donc autre que la tectonique). Un relief dont le modelé s'explique principalement par l'érosion est dit « relief d'érosion ».
Sablethumbnail|right|Dunes de la vallée de la Mort en Californie. vignette|Les charroyeurs de sable Stanislao Pointeau 1861. vignette|La Seine à Port-Marly, tas de sable par Alfred Sisley (1875), Chicago, Art Institute of Chicago. Le sable est une matière solide granulaire constituée de petites particules provenant de la désagrégation de matériaux d'origine minérale (essentiellement des roches) ou organique (coquilles, squelettes de coraux) dont la dimension est comprise entre (limon) et (gravier) selon la définition des matériaux granulaires en géologie.
Marine coastal ecosystemA marine coastal ecosystem is a marine ecosystem which occurs where the land meets the ocean. Marine coastal ecosystems include many very different types of marine habitats, each with their own characteristics and species composition. They are characterized by high levels of biodiversity and productivity. For example, estuaries are areas where freshwater rivers meet the saltwater of the ocean, creating an environment that is home to a wide variety of species, including fish, shellfish, and birds.
Diffraction de FraunhoferEn optique et électromagnétisme, la 'diffraction de Fraunhofer, encore nommée diffraction en champ lointain' ou approximation de Fraunhofer, est l'observation en champ lointain de la figure de diffraction par un objet diffractant. Cette observation peut aussi se faire dans le plan focal image d'une lentille convergente. Elle s'oppose à la diffraction de Fresnel qui décrit le même phénomène de diffraction mais en champ proche.
Diffractionthumb|Phénomène d'interférences dû à la diffraction d'une onde à travers deux ouvertures. La diffraction est le comportement des ondes lorsqu'elles rencontrent un obstacle ou une ouverture ; le phénomène peut être interprété par la diffusion d’une onde par les points de l'objet. La diffraction se manifeste par des phénomènes d'interférence. La diffraction s’observe avec la lumière, mais de manière générale avec toutes les ondes : le son, les vagues, les ondes radio, Elle permet de mettre en évidence le caractère ondulatoire d'un phénomène et même de corps matériels tels que des électrons, neutrons, atomes froids.
Porous mediumIn materials science, a porous medium or a porous material is a material containing pores (voids). The skeletal portion of the material is often called the "matrix" or "frame". The pores are typically filled with a fluid (liquid or gas). The skeletal material is usually a solid, but structures like foams are often also usefully analyzed using concept of porous media. A porous medium is most often characterised by its porosity. Other properties of the medium (e.g.
Sedimentary budgetSedimentary budgets are a coastal management tool used to analyze and describe the different sediment inputs (sources) and outputs (sinks) on the coasts, which is used to predict morphological change in any particular coastline over time. Within a coastal environment the rate of change of sediment is dependent on the amount of sediment brought into the system versus the amount of sediment that leaves the system. These inputs and outputs of sediment then equate to the total balance of the system and more than often reflect the amounts of erosion or accretion affecting the morphology of the coast.
Coastal hazardsCoastal hazards are physical phenomena that expose a coastal area to the risk of property damage, loss of life, and environmental degradation. Rapid-onset hazards last a few minutes to several days and encompass significant cyclones accompanied by high-speed winds, waves, and surges or tsunamis created by submarine (undersea) earthquakes and landslides. Slow-onset hazards, such as erosion and gradual inundation, develop incrementally over extended periods.
Brise-lamesthumb|Les principales fonctions d'un môle sont l'accostage et la protection contre les vagues. Un brise-lames est un dispositif orienté parallèlement au trait de côte, mais non rattaché à celui-ci. Établi devant un port, une zone aménagée, une plage ou un littoral vulnérable à l'érosion, il est conçu pour s'opposer à l'énergie de la houle et diminuer l'agitation du plan d'eau à la côte. Une jetée ou une digue sert fréquemment de brise-lames, et ainsi constitue un abri pour protéger une zone de mouillage lors de mauvais temps.
Dispersion (water waves)In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of different wavelengths travel at different phase speeds. Water waves, in this context, are waves propagating on the water surface, with gravity and surface tension as the restoring forces. As a result, water with a free surface is generally considered to be a dispersive medium. For a certain water depth, surface gravity waves – i.e.
Diffraction from slitsDiffraction processes affecting waves are amenable to quantitative description and analysis. Such treatments are applied to a wave passing through one or more slits whose width is specified as a proportion of the wavelength. Numerical approximations may be used, including the Fresnel and Fraunhofer approximations. Because diffraction is the result of addition of all waves (of given wavelength) along all unobstructed paths, the usual procedure is to consider the contribution of an infinitesimally small neighborhood around a certain path (this contribution is usually called a wavelet) and then integrate over all paths (= add all wavelets) from the source to the detector (or given point on a screen).
