Lecture

Shallow Water Waves: Stability and Tsunamis

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In course

PHYS-203: Computational physics I

Aborder, formuler et résoudre des problèmes de physique en utilisant des méthodes numériques simples. Comprendre les avantages et les limites de ces méthodes (stabilité, convergence). Illustrer différents sujets de physique traités dans d'autres cours. ...

Description

This lecture covers topics related to shallow water waves, including numerical stability, Fourier transforms, and the derivation of wave equations in shallow waters. The instructor demonstrates simulations of tsunamis and discusses the stability conditions for finite difference schemes. The lecture also explores the impact of disturbances on ocean surfaces, linearization in shallow waters, and the analytical solutions using the WKB method.

Instructor

Laurent Villard

Teaching & PhD Past EPFL PhD Students Matteo Maccio, Olivier Fischer, Gloria Luisa Falchetto, Paolo Angelino, Sébastien Jolliet, Xavier Lapillonne, Thibaut Vernay, Julien Stanislas Pierre Dominski, Gabriele Merlo, Emmanuel Lanti, Noé Ohana, Moahan Murugappan

Official source

Related concepts (32)

Fourier transform

In physics and mathematics, the Fourier transform (FT) is a transform that converts a function into a form that describes the frequencies present in the original function. The output of the transform is a complex-valued function of frequency. The term Fourier transform refers to both this complex-valued function and the mathematical operation. When a distinction needs to be made the Fourier transform is sometimes called the frequency domain representation of the original function.

Fourier analysis

In mathematics, Fourier analysis (ˈfʊrieɪ,_-iər) is the study of the way general functions may be represented or approximated by sums of simpler trigonometric functions. Fourier analysis grew from the study of Fourier series, and is named after Joseph Fourier, who showed that representing a function as a sum of trigonometric functions greatly simplifies the study of heat transfer. The subject of Fourier analysis encompasses a vast spectrum of mathematics.

Waves and shallow water

When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.

Discrete Fourier transform

In mathematics, the discrete Fourier transform (DFT) converts a finite sequence of equally-spaced samples of a function into a same-length sequence of equally-spaced samples of the discrete-time Fourier transform (DTFT), which is a complex-valued function of frequency. The interval at which the DTFT is sampled is the reciprocal of the duration of the input sequence. An inverse DFT (IDFT) is a Fourier series, using the DTFT samples as coefficients of complex sinusoids at the corresponding DTFT frequencies.

Boussinesq approximation (water waves)

In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by John Scott Russell of the wave of translation (also known as solitary wave or soliton). The 1872 paper of Boussinesq introduces the equations now known as the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq approximation for water waves takes into account the vertical structure of the horizontal and vertical flow velocity.

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