Mediaspace scheduled maintenance: Aug 25, 2026 07:00 - 12:00 AM. During this time, videos will be temporarily unavailable. Check status updates.

Lecture

Shallow Water Waves: Stability and Tsunamis

In course

PHYS-203: Computational physics I

Aborder, formuler et résoudre des problèmes de physique en utilisant des méthodes numériques simples. Comprendre les avantages et les limites de ces méthodes (stabilité, convergence). Illustrer différents sujets de physique traités dans d'autres cours. ...

Description

This lecture covers topics related to shallow water waves, including numerical stability, Fourier transforms, and the derivation of wave equations in shallow waters. The instructor demonstrates simulations of tsunamis and discusses the stability conditions for finite difference schemes. The lecture also explores the impact of disturbances on ocean surfaces, linearization in shallow waters, and the analytical solutions using the WKB method.

This video is available exclusively on Mediaspace for a restricted audience. Please log in to MediaSpace to access it if you have the necessary permissions.

Watch on Mediaspace

Instructor

Laurent Villard

Originaire de Vauffelin (BE), Laurent Villard est né en 1961. Après avoir obtenu le diplôme d'ingénieur physicien de l'EPFL en 1983, il est assistant au CRPP où il entame une thèse. Ses études portent sur l'étude théorique du chauffage des plasmas par ondes radiofréquences, développant pour cela un code de calcul numérique sous contrat avec le Joint European Torus (JET, Angleterre). Il obtient en 1987 le doctorat ès sciences. En 1988, il est engagé en tant que chargé de cours à l'Université d'Addis Abeba, enseignant l'électromagnétisme et l'électrodynamique. En 1989 et 1990, il rejoint le Polytechnic Education Development Centre de l'Institute of Technology of Bandung (ITB, Indonésie). Ses activités contribuent à la formation et au soutien du personnel enseignant des dix-sept écoles polytechniques nouvellement créées en Indonésie. A la fin 1990, il revient au CRPP en tant que collaborateur scientifique. En 1993 il est nommé professeur assistant. En 1999, il est nommé maître d'enseignement et de recherche, puis, en 2005, professeur titulaire. En collaboration avec JET et General Atomics (USA) il étudie les instabilités qui peuvent être provoquées par les particules énergétiques issues du processus de fusion nucléaire. Avec des scientifiques du Keldysh Institute (Moscou), il s'intéresse au calcul de l'équilibre et de la stabilité de configurations du type tokamak. Enfin, en collaboration notamment avec le Max-Planck Institute fuer Plasma Physik, ses recherches portent sur la simulation numérique, par calcul à haute performance (HPC), de la turbulence dans les plasmas magnétisés.

Official source

Related concepts (32)

Fourier transform

In physics and mathematics, the Fourier transform (FT) is a transform that converts a function into a form that describes the frequencies present in the original function. The output of the transform is a complex-valued function of frequency. The term Fourier transform refers to both this complex-valued function and the mathematical operation. When a distinction needs to be made the Fourier transform is sometimes called the frequency domain representation of the original function.

Fourier analysis

In mathematics, Fourier analysis (ˈfʊrieɪ,_-iər) is the study of the way general functions may be represented or approximated by sums of simpler trigonometric functions. Fourier analysis grew from the study of Fourier series, and is named after Joseph Fourier, who showed that representing a function as a sum of trigonometric functions greatly simplifies the study of heat transfer. The subject of Fourier analysis encompasses a vast spectrum of mathematics.

Waves and shallow water

When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.

Discrete Fourier transform

In mathematics, the discrete Fourier transform (DFT) converts a finite sequence of equally-spaced samples of a function into a same-length sequence of equally-spaced samples of the discrete-time Fourier transform (DTFT), which is a complex-valued function of frequency. The interval at which the DTFT is sampled is the reciprocal of the duration of the input sequence. An inverse DFT (IDFT) is a Fourier series, using the DTFT samples as coefficients of complex sinusoids at the corresponding DTFT frequencies.

Boussinesq approximation (water waves)

In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by John Scott Russell of the wave of translation (also known as solitary wave or soliton). The 1872 paper of Boussinesq introduces the equations now known as the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq approximation for water waves takes into account the vertical structure of the horizontal and vertical flow velocity.

Related lectures (39)

Numerical Methods: Boundary Value Problems

Covers numerical methods for solving boundary value problems using Crank-Nicolson and FFT.

Numerical Methods for Boundary Value Problems

Covers numerical methods for solving boundary value problems using finite difference, FFT, and finite element methods.

Numerical Methods: Boundary Value Problems

Covers numerical methods for solving boundary value problems, including applications with the Fast Fourier transform (FFT) and de-noising data.

Numerical Physics: Fourier Transforms and Linear Algebra

Covers advanced topics in computational physics, focusing on Fourier transforms and linear algebra.

Properties of Fourier and inverse Fourier transforms