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Lecture

Shallow Water Waves: Linearization and Disturbances

In course

PHYS-203: Computational physics I

Aborder, formuler et résoudre des problèmes de physique en utilisant des méthodes numériques simples. Comprendre les avantages et les limites de ces méthodes (stabilité, convergence). Illustrer différents sujets de physique traités dans d'autres cours. ...

Description

This lecture covers the linearization of shallow water wave equations under the hypotheses of a perfect, incompressible fluid and small disturbances. It discusses the impact of variable depth on the propagation velocity of waves, illustrated with examples from the 2004 Sumatra earthquake and tsunami. The instructor explains the concept of slow variations of terms with ε and the symbolization of term 'smallness' in equations.

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Instructor

Laurent Villard

Originaire de Vauffelin (BE), Laurent Villard est né en 1961. Après avoir obtenu le diplôme d'ingénieur physicien de l'EPFL en 1983, il est assistant au CRPP où il entame une thèse. Ses études portent sur l'étude théorique du chauffage des plasmas par ondes radiofréquences, développant pour cela un code de calcul numérique sous contrat avec le Joint European Torus (JET, Angleterre). Il obtient en 1987 le doctorat ès sciences. En 1988, il est engagé en tant que chargé de cours à l'Université d'Addis Abeba, enseignant l'électromagnétisme et l'électrodynamique. En 1989 et 1990, il rejoint le Polytechnic Education Development Centre de l'Institute of Technology of Bandung (ITB, Indonésie). Ses activités contribuent à la formation et au soutien du personnel enseignant des dix-sept écoles polytechniques nouvellement créées en Indonésie. A la fin 1990, il revient au CRPP en tant que collaborateur scientifique. En 1993 il est nommé professeur assistant. En 1999, il est nommé maître d'enseignement et de recherche, puis, en 2005, professeur titulaire. En collaboration avec JET et General Atomics (USA) il étudie les instabilités qui peuvent être provoquées par les particules énergétiques issues du processus de fusion nucléaire. Avec des scientifiques du Keldysh Institute (Moscou), il s'intéresse au calcul de l'équilibre et de la stabilité de configurations du type tokamak. Enfin, en collaboration notamment avec le Max-Planck Institute fuer Plasma Physik, ses recherches portent sur la simulation numérique, par calcul à haute performance (HPC), de la turbulence dans les plasmas magnétisés.

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Related concepts (32)

Wave

In physics, mathematics, engineering, and related fields, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance (change from equilibrium) of one or more quantities. Waves can be periodic, in which case those quantities oscillate repeatedly about an equilibrium (resting) value at some frequency. When the entire waveform moves in one direction, it is said to be a traveling wave; by contrast, a pair of superimposed periodic waves traveling in opposite directions makes a standing wave.

Incompressible flow

In fluid mechanics or more generally continuum mechanics, incompressible flow (isochoric flow) refers to a flow in which the material density is constant within a fluid parcel—an infinitesimal volume that moves with the flow velocity. An equivalent statement that implies incompressibility is that the divergence of the flow velocity is zero (see the derivation below, which illustrates why these conditions are equivalent). Incompressible flow does not imply that the fluid itself is incompressible.

Wind wave

In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface. The contact distance in the direction of the wind is known as the fetch. Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of kilometers before reaching land. Wind waves on Earth range in size from small ripples to waves over high, being limited by wind speed, duration, fetch, and water depth.

2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami

On 26 December 2004, at 07:58:53 local time (UTC+7), a major earthquake with a magnitude of 9.1–9.3 struck with an epicentre off the west coast of northern Sumatra, Indonesia. The undersea megathrust earthquake, known by the scientific community as the Sumatra–Andaman earthquake, was caused by a rupture along the fault between the Burma Plate and the Indian Plate, and reached a Mercalli intensity up to IX in some areas.

Boussinesq approximation (water waves)

In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves. The approximation is named after Joseph Boussinesq, who first derived them in response to the observation by John Scott Russell of the wave of translation (also known as solitary wave or soliton). The 1872 paper of Boussinesq introduces the equations now known as the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq approximation for water waves takes into account the vertical structure of the horizontal and vertical flow velocity.

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